The Stone Knot

The Stone Knot (aka "Stein Knot", Stein being 'stone' in German) is a double-blocking knot useful for speeding things up and increasing safety when rapping with a large group. It is quick to tie and untie, and produces several desirable conditions:

A. it blocks both strands of the rope, so that each rope can be used separately. Those who wish to use a double-strand can also rap that way;

B. it prevents the rope from "running" - the rope is fixed, it cannot run through the rapide, if, for instance, one end is a tad short;

C. it creates a safety-clip-in spot just above the Stone Knot - can be useful when the anchor is a ways back from the edge.

The MAIN advantage for large group management is that, with everyone rapping single strand, the next person can be setting up while the present person is rappelling, and they can start down as soon as the rappeller is on the ground. For short rappels, this can save quite a bit of time.

If the anchor is suitable for a two-person load, the line of rappel is clear of loose rock; and the lines of rappel are suitable for it, the double-block of the Stone Knot can be a good rig for a simul-rappel.

KNOT-NERD-STUFF: the Stone Knot is a "hitch", as it is a combination of rope and an object. There are several variations on the Stone Knot. The one I show is the one I prefer and find easiest to tie - it is based on an overhand knot. Other versions of the Stone Knot include the following variables: overhand or figure-of-eight knot; biner clips to single strand above or below the knot (it is not clear that 'below the knot' provides a secure double-block); and the bulk of the knot above or below the two strands clipped. The one I show is: overhand-style, upper clip, bulk of knot above the two clipped strands.

TYING THE STONE KNOT

1. Thread the rope through the rapid link and pull enough rope through to reach the ground.

(If using TWO ROPES, you can, of course, poke one end through the rapide and tie the two ropes together; then toss down each line. Leave the knot adjacent to the rapide, and tie the Stone Knot as usual).

2. Reach up near the anchor and form a loop with both ropes together. Note that the lines from the anchor are behind the crossing of the loop.

3. Move the loop over the descending strands.

4. Pull the two descending strands up through the loop - not a lot, just a bit.

5. Clip a large carabiner through the two descending strands, then ...

6. ... turn the biner over and clip ONE of the upper strands.

7. Turn the biner back around so the large end is at the bottom, LOCK THE GATE, and tighten the hitch.

8. Congratulations, you now have a Stone Knot. Each strand can be rappelled, and the loop above the Stone Knot can be used as a safety clip in point.

9. Last Person Responsibilities
After everyone else has rapped, the last person removes the stone knot to make the rope retrievable. The carabiner can be used to lever open the knot. It is possible for the knot to shift to a less-standard form than shown in these pictures, in which case it may be inobvious as to how the knot is removed.

The last person might rappel double strand, or use the biner to set a block and rappel single strand.