Spearhead Canyon, Zion National Park Oct 14 and 15, 2010
Second descent (probable) by Steve Ramras, Jenny West, Pascal van Duin and Tom
Jones
Prior History: Brian Cabe and I ascended Hook Canyon to the Majestic/Cathedral
pass and summit plateau in October 2000, and descended the canyon the next day. We
found no evidence of descents in the upper canyon, but the final chimney section
(below The Spearhead) was bolted for descent.
Steve Ramras and Steve Brezovec made an attempt a few years prior, but were
defeated by the incredibly thick Manzanita thrash-fest on the summit plateau,
and descended via Hook Canyon.
In July 2009, after extensive fires burned off the Manzanita, Luke (Bluugnome) from
Las Vegas and companion climbed the Behunin Ridge for an attempt on the canyon,
but did not proceed past the summit plateau, exiting via Hook Canyon.
Spearhead has substantial logistical difficulties. How do you get to the head?
How much rope to carry? Where is there water? Because it is about a day and a
half long, perhaps one should do it in high summer with the long days… then
again, since it lacks significant water, maybe that is not such a good idea. We
decided upon a casual two day trip in cooler weather, with a crack-of-an-early
start to (try to) avoid the heat. It had rained torrentially the week before, so
we were pretty sure of finding pumpable water in the middle section of the
canyon for a bivy.
Last time, Brian and I brought 200 foot ropes and a bolt kit with many bolts;
and got lucky in not needing to use it for the canyon descent. This time we brought a 300 foot rope, a lot more experience, and no bolt kit… comments on that later. Again this time, the Fortuna smiled
on our party.
Approach
We got an early start, though somewhat delayed by my leaving part of my pack
back in the car at the Museum. The hike to Behunin pass in the pre-dawn cool was
delightful. Down the canyon we went as the sky lightened. Just as we arrived at
the base of Behunin ridge, the day warmed up, so the steep climb up the very
loose and sandy lower parts of the southeast-facing ridge was excruciatingly
hot. The steep 4th class part at the top was easier than I had remembered, and
we were soon enjoying lunch overlooking the impressive dropoff into the REAL
Behunin canyon.
