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Ratings - Finding Routes for You
Ratings are a challenge. They need to be objective, but are based on one or a few trips down a canyon. With more or less water, a few logs shifted here or there, a good day vs. a bad day, the rating for any canyon can change up or down substantially. All ratings are estimates for fit adults in small groups, with proper gear and in ideal conditions.
But, I digress. We have ratings so that you, dear reader, may find ventures that match your abilities and proclivities. The ratings also indicate the seriousness of the canyon, and provide guidance on what gear to bring. The wise adventurer will choose companions for which the canyon is also appropriate, thus extending, rather than shortening, friendships.
Here at Tom's Utah Canyoneering Guide, we use the American Canyoneering Association (ACA) Canyon Rating System. The rating is divided into four parts, the Technical Class, which indicates the technicality of the terrain and the type of ropework required;
the Water Rating, which indicates the complications due to flowing or still water; the Risk Rating which indicates the presence of more risk factors, and the Time or Grade, which indicates the length of the adventure. I also provide a Quality Rating in the form of zero to three stars.
When adventures are more like climbs, the YDS rock climbing rating system will be used.
Technical Classification
• 1 Canyon Hiking: Non-technical. No rope is required. See the route description for difficulties.
• 2 Basic Canyoneering: Scrambling, easy climbing or downclimbing. A rope may be handy for handlines, belays, lowering packs and emergency use. Exit or retreat possible upcanyon without fixed ropes.
• 3 Intermediate Canyoneering: Rappels or technical climbing and/or downclimbing. A rope isrequired for belays and single pitch rappels. Retreat upcanyon would require fixing ropes.
• 4 Advanced Canyoneering: Aid climbing, multi-pitch rappels and/or complex rope work (such as re-belays, tyrolleans and guided rappels) may be required. Might also require difficult pothole escapes, serious squeezing, extensive high-risk downclimbing, or have difficult-to-establish natural anchors.
Water: Volume/Current
• A - Normally dry or with very little water. Wading to waist deep at most.
• B - Water with no current or light current. Still pools. Falls are normally dry or running at a trickle. Swimming expected.
• C - Water with strong current. Waterfalls. Wet canyon rope techniques required.
Risk / Seriousness
• (no rating) - Normal risk factors are present on this adventure.
• R - Risky: One or more extraordinary risk factors exist that will complicate the descent. Solid technical skills and sound judgement required. Not appropriate for beginners, even in competent company.
• X - Extreme: Multiple risk factors exist that will complicate the descent. Errors in technique or judgement will likely result in serious injury or death. Descent should be attempted by expert canyoneers only.
The presence of an R or X in the rating suggests that the canyon will involve higher than average risk, over and above the many risk factors found in canyons normally. Some examples of additional risks: long and/or difficult rappels, station to station rappels, exposed climbing or traversing, extensive 4th or 5th class climbing unroped, difficult anchors, sections of loose or dangerous rock, difficult or committing route finding, prolonged immersion or extensive swimming. Specific factors should be addressed in the route description.
Grade - Time Required and Seriousness
• I - Short. A couple of hours.
• II - Requires about a half day.
• III - Normally requires most of a day.
• IV - Expected to take a long day. Get up early, bring a headlamp. Possible bivy.
• V - More than one day. Normally done in two days.
• VI - Two full days or more.
Stars: Quality Ratings
are very subjective. I use 0 to 3 stars which mean:
•  - A Classic. Really good.
•  - Pretty Good, well worth doing.
•  - Has redeeming qualities.
• (0 stars ) - Probably not worth the bother.
Since this is a 'select' guide - there are mostly 2 star and 3 star canyons here.
Any rating assigned is, of course, only my evaluation in the conditions I found on one or more trips. Be prepared for the canyons to be a fair amount harder than stated.
Who Will Like What.
Aye, there's the rub. Here's what I think you will find of interest:
All adventures require map-reading skills and a map. Careful analysis of the route description should indicate the difficulty of getting there and back, but the route descriptions do not replace carrying and using a good map.
Hikers of Reasonable Fitness and Skills will like 1A, 1B, 2A and 2B adventures.They may like the easier 3A and 3B routes, if possessing a little climbing experience or accompanied by a climber. Carefully read the 3A and 3B route descriptions to make sure you are up to the technical obstacles involved.
Climbers will generally enjoy 3A and 3B routes. The set of skills required for technical routes has little to do with yanking your way up the local clip-up, and everything to do with good ropework, judgement and experience. It is essential to have the right gear and know how to use it - like lots of slings, static ropes and wet suits. Creative natural anchor skills are developed by getting out with experienced canyoneers.
Climbers will want to have at least five or six 3A and 3B routes under their belts before taking on 4A and 4B canyons, or any canyon with an R or X rating.
Experienced Canyoners will understand that flowing water has its own risks and techniques that require special training. Class 3C and 4C canyons should only be attempted by trained, well-equipped canyoneers.
Leading Large Groups should be done with extreme caution. Especially in wet canyons, things can get out of control very quickly. It is not uncommon to see a large group of non-climbers being led by one novice climber in a technical canyon like Zion's Pine Creek, making poor decisions, and putting innocent people at risk. Don't do this.
Large Groups are as slow as their slowest member, and then slower. Youth groups get in trouble all the time in Utah, often resulting in rescues and occasionally in deaths. Technical canyons are not good places for youth groups. Find some other form of adventure. If your group is larger than six people, break into two groups to make the going faster and decrease your environmental impact.
Bring Along the Right Stuff
The rating gives a general idea of the "kit" of technical gear required for a canyon, though it does not replace careful analysis of the description. In general, bring:
1A and 1B: A map.
2A and 2B: Map and compass or GPS may be required, and a short rope for lowering/raising packs might be helpful.
3A and 3B: Ropes and technical gear. Helmet, harness, rappel device, locking carabiner and rappeling gloves for each and every person. Some webbing and four or five over-the-shoulder slings in case anchors need to be rerigged. It is helpful to have tiblocs or prussicks and enough slings to use them. As always, a map and compass or GPS may be required.
4A and 4B: These canyons require more gear, self-reliance and skills - matched to the difficulties found in that canyon. Ropes will be needed, of course. Helmet, harness, rap device, locking biner, clip-in sling and gloves for each person. Enough slings and Rapid Links to replace anchors in the canyon. Tiblocs or prussicks plus enough slings to use them to climb the rope. Map and compass or GPS. Bringing an extra rope or pull cord may be a good idea. 4A and 4B canyons may have old or unsafe bolts that are unreliable - good natural anchor skills will allow you to bypass suspect hardware.
An R or X indicates greater seriousness, and suggests needing more skills or bringing more stuff (long slings, hook kit, etc.) for improvising anchors and pushing through technical obstacles.
Groups
I am not fond of large groups in our canyons. If you do bring a large group (larger than 6 persons), here are some suggestions:
Break It Up: take your group down in smaller groups of about 6. If you don't have enough competent leadership to break into groups, you don't have enough to manage the larger group.
Respect Your Fellow Travellers: large groups can be obnoxious to other groups. Play well with others by giving them ample space, and keeping the raucous laughter and social chit-chat to a minimum. That touch-football game can probably wait until you are back at the campground.
Carry Extra Gear: given the carrying power of all those people, you should bring a spare set of ropes, plus ascenders and a spare rappel device. In case of injury, one group can go for help without stranding those who stay behind.
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