Leprechaun Canyon - Technical Routes
| | East Fork | Main Fork | West Fork |
| Nickname: | Leprechaun | Shimrock | Shamrock |
| Rating: | 3A II  | 4A III | 3A II  |
| Season: | Spring, Fall or Winter |
| Length: | 2-4 hours | 2-6 hours | 2-4 hours |
| Longest Rappel: | 60 feet | 50 feet | 60 feet |
| Equipment: | Helmets, Disposable clothing, Headlamp helpful West and Main Forks |
| Skills Required: | Natural anchoring, downclimbing, partner climbing |
| Drinking Water: | None available, bring plenty |
| Logistics: | There are several ways to do these routes |
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A nice handful of canyons, the Three Leps make a great introductory weekend to the skinny canyons. Each Fork has its own character and is well worth doing.
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Warnings
These things have some skinny stuff, and involve quite a bit of climbing to get through. Escaping from the canyons once in them is difficult, dangerous and not recommended. Don't be a big ol' fool. If you're too big, go elsewhere. Check out Belfast Boulevard and the two side canyons before diving into the Main Fork.
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Suggested plan of attack
Saturday - Hike from camp up the east-side approach to the top of the East Fork then descend. Shuffle downcanyon to the foot of the West Side Buttress and have lunch. Ascend the West Side Buttress to the top of the West Fork, and descend it. Return to camp in time for Happy Hour.
Sunday - Hike from camp to the top of the Main Fork, and descend. Head back to the Big City.
Logistics
There are several approaches to the tops of the canyons. Navigation is somewhat difficult, and it is important to get into the correct fork. The Main and West Forks look pretty similar. Follow the map carefully. Check the description of what the tops of the canyons look like, and if you are in the wrong place, get out.
East Side Approach: from camp, climb onto the buttress and climb for the top. There's a little drainage behind camp - the slab problem west of the drainage is difficult for a few feet - a hand line might be useful. An easier approach is via the easier buttress to the east of the small drainage. Climb to a hundred feet short of the top, then follow the slabs around left to the head of the Left Fork.
West Side Buttress Approach: hike up Leprechaun from the bottom. A few minutes past the brush, a side-canyon/gully comes in from the left. The WS Buttress is just past this. Ascend the buttress to the top. The head of the West Fork soon appears on the right. Find a way through the rim rock and down to the slickrock level. If dropping into the West Fork, you're there. If heading for the Main Fork, hike the slickrock around to the Main Fork.
West Side Buttress From Up-Canyon: when hiking down the canyon, the West Side Buttress can be used to climb back to the top for more fun. I hate to say it, but the route is obvious. It is up the low-angle buttress between the mini-slot (walk around on the left) and the first of the reeds.
Fat and Lazy Approach: it is also possible to drive to the top. Luxury! From camp, drive 2 miles west to the junction with Route 276. Continue 2/3 of a mile north on 95 to a small dirt road on the right. It comes up fast! This dirt road is 2WD compatible when dry, though a bit washboarded, and has a couple small washes that cut deeply across the road - and cause quite a surprise. Drive 3 miles to a "lone tree" and a sharp LEFT turn (in the main road). Two Wheel Drive vehicles park here. 4WDs can continue straight (Southeast) and follow a progressively rougher road along the crest of a ridge as far as your clearance allows. Park while you can still turn around.
The ridge is the divide between the East Fork (left) and the Main Fork (right). There is a small stockpond near the top of the East Fork.
For the Main Fork, follow the road to the end, then follow cattle trails right and down into a shallow wash. Follow the wash until it slots up to drop through the Rim Rock. Descend the slot - send the best and tallest climber down first. The moves at the bottom are a little difficult, and the first time, a handline might be appropriate. The first person down can spot folks. There's a bit of a drop there - be careful.
East Fork (Leprechaun or Upper Leprechaun, sometimes Right Fork)
The East Fork and Main Fork are close to the same length, but the East Fork is less serious and the prettiest of the three forks. It also has the most rappels, some of which can be difficult to anchor. Bring a really good downclimber, or a fair bit of webbing.
At the top, there's a short rap and then a downclimb slot through the rimrock - explore if you wish, or walk around on the left. From the top of the Navajo, climb down into the canyon or rappel from a rock. Follow the canyon through
an assortment of slots and down short drops. Many of these will require "Sequencing" - have the best-climbing person-or-two sit down and brace themselves, and provide an anchor for other people to rappel. Then the best climber downclimbs with assistance and spotting from below.
Near the junction, the canyon drops faster and a short rappel will requires a real anchor. Find anchorage from rocks in the pothole above the drop. If slings are already in place, be sure to check them for wear and tear (and strength) before using them.
The last rappel ends in the "Inscription Chamber". Admire the graffiti, then slither down a short slot to the junction with the main canyon.
The energetic canyoneer will slither UP the Main Fork - a section called Belfast Boulevard. BB is fairly tight - but not the tightest section of the Main Fork.
West Fork (Shamrock, sometimes Left Fork)
The West Fork is the shortest adventure of the three, but quite charming.
The top of the West Fork has two small forks. Slab climb easily downward between the two forks to a flat area where the two canyons meet, and the main canyon slots up and drops sharply. Establish an anchor and rappel in.
This anchor MAY be hard to establish. A deadman buried in a sand-filled pothole has been used, but if the anchor is not extended to the lip, the rope is hard to pull and leaves deep grooves in the incredibly soft rock. Look around, figure something out. It can also be downclimbed, but is fairly hard and scary. Be smart.
Follow the canyon down. Raps here and there lead downward. This canyon is fairly open and gets a bit of sun. A nice pothole and slab area is encountered just before meeting the Main Fork. Just past this intersection, the top end of Belfast Boulevard is encountered. Turn on your headlamp, and crawl under and then on top of some rocks, then "elevator" down the slot to the bottom. It is not as narrows as it looks. (Children will need to be roped down this section). Shuffle sideways for 40 feet to the intersection with the East Fork.
Main Fork (Shimrock, or Middle Fork)
The Main Fork offers BY FAR the most entertainment. It is longer, skinnier, and a lot more work than the other forks.
The top of the Main Fork has two short forks, both of which require a rappel right at the start. The western fork drops about 80 feet into a narrow slot. There is no obvious anchor available - it can be body anchored, with the last person rapping into the eastern fork (for instance). The eastern fork is the usual start to the canyon. Walk right around the start of the slot, and slab climb down to where a large, dark rock has fallen into the canyon just above a drop. A sling may be in place under the rock to anchor a rappel. Rap 40 feet into the canyon.
Main Lep starts with a nice warm-up section. After a bit of strolling, a short very-narrow section offers a small taste of what is ahead. If this is not for you, exit as soon as possible. It only gets narrower.
Heading downcanyon, a wide variety of fun obstacles are overcome. There are many downclimbs and controlled slides down narrow slots. Folks who are too big to squeeze through can climb over, although this involves strenuous climbing and gets you high off the ground. Enjoy.
One spot is a bit too far to downclimb, and requires a bit of ingenuity to rappel. An anchor can be had about 20 feet upcanyon, or the rope can be used to make a counter-weighted rappel off a fin. To do this, sequence all members of the party down except one. Drape the rope very carefully behind a fin-like nubbin at the edge of the drop, and have one of the people below anchor one side of the rope. The last person then raps very gently off the other rope end and down into the slot.
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