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Ratings - Finding Routes for You

Ratings are a challenge. They need to be objective, but are based on one or a few trips down a canyon. With more or less water, a few logs shifted here or there, a good day vs. a bad day, the rating for any canyon can change up or down substantially. All ratings are estimates for fit adults in small groups, with proper gear and in ideal conditions.

But, I digress. We have ratings so that you, dear reader, may find ventures that match your abilities and proclivities. The ratings also indicate the seriousness of the canyon, and provide guidance as to how much gear to bring

Here at Tom's Utah Canyoneering Guide, we use the American Canyoneering Association (ACA) Canyon Rating System. The rating is divided into four parts, the Technical Class, which indicates the technicality of the terrain and the type of ropework required; the Water Rating, which indicates the complications due to flowing or still water; the Risk Rating which indicates the presence of more risk factors, and the Time or Grade, which indicates the length of the adventure. I also provide a Quality Rating in the form of zero to three stars. Of course, zero star routes did not make it into the guide, so...

Some adventures are more like climbs, and will be rated using the YDS climbing ratings.

Technical Classification

1 Canyon Hiking: Non-technical. No rope required. See route description for difficulties.
2 Basic Canyoneering: Scrambling, easy vertical or near-vertical climbing or downclimbing. Rope recommended for handlines, belays, lowering packs and possible emergency use. Exit or retreat possible upcanyon without fixed ropes.
3 Intermediate Canyoneering: Real technical climbing/downclimbing, difficult and dangerous. Most people will rappel instead. Rope required for belays and single pitch rappels. Retreat upcanyon would require fixing ropes.
4 Advanced Canyoneering: Aid climbing, multi-pitch rappels and/or other complex rope work (such as re-belays, tyrolleans and guided rappels) will be required. Might also require extensive downclimbing, or difficult to establish natural anchor problems.

Water: Volume/Current

A - Normally dry or with very little water. Wading to waist deep at most.
B - Water with no current or light current. Still pools. Falls normally dry or running at a trickle. Swimming expected.
C - Water with strong current. Waterfalls. Wet canyon rope techniques required.

Risk / Seriousness

(no rating) - Normal risk factors are present on this adventure.
R - Risky: One or more extraordinary risk factors exist that will complicate the descent. Solid technical skills and sound judgement required. Not appropriate for beginners, even in competent company.
X - Extreme: Multiple risk factors exist that will complicate the descent. Errors in technique or judgement will likely result in serious injury or death. Descent should be attempted by expert canyoneers only.

The presence of an R or X in the rating suggests that the canyon will involve higher than average risk, over and above the many risk factors found in canyons normally. Some examples of additional risks: long and/or difficult rappels, station to station rappels, exposed climbing or traversing, extensive 4th or 5th class climbing unroped, difficult anchors, sections of loose or dangerous rock, difficult or committing route finding, prolonged immersion or extensive swimming. Specific factors should be addressed in the route description.

Time (Grade)

I - Short. A couple of hours.
II - Requires about a half day.
III - Normally requires most of a day.
IV - Expected to take a long day. Get up early, bring a headlamp. Possible bivy.
V - More than one day. Normally done in two days.
VI - Two full days or more.

Stars: Quality Ratings are very subjective. I use 0 to 3 stars which mean:

- A Classic. Really good.
- Pretty Good, well worth doing.
- Has redeeming qualities.
(0 stars ) - Probably not worth the bother.

Since this is a 'select' guide, there are mostly 3 and 2 star canyons. This is known as 'star inflation'. I'll try to be a little more discerning and quell my enthusiasm, but... Comments are appreciated - please email me using the Feedback Form.


Any rating given is, of course, only my evaluation in the conditions I found. Many will disagree, up or down. Please be responsible and be careful.

Who Will Like What. Aye, that's the rub. Here's what I think you will find of interest:

Almost All adventures require map-reading skills and a map. Careful analysis of the route description should indicate the difficulty of getting there and back, but the route descriptions do not replace carrying and using a good map.

Non-Hikers, Non-Outdoor Types will find the least difficulty with the shorter 1A hikes. This includes hiking with children at that troublesome in-between age - too big to carry, too small to go very far. Most of the 1A hikes are out-n-backs, with no commitment to making a certain distance. Note that times listed are for fit adults in small groups without children.

Hikers of Reasonable Fitness and Skills will like most of the 1A, 1B, 2A and 2B adventures, and may like some of the 3A and 3B hikes, especially when accompanied by a climber, or if possessing a little climbing experience. Carefully read the 3A and 3B route descriptions to make sure you are up to the technical obstacles involved.

Climbers will generally enjoy all 3A or 3B routes. The set of skills required for technical routes has little to do with yanking your way up the local clip-up, and everything to do with good ropework, judgement and experience. It is also essential to have the right gear (and know how to use it) like lots of slings and partial or full wet suits. Many routes require these skills more because of remoteness than because of actual difficulty, but if you are stuck without an anchor, you are stuck.

Climbers will want to have at least five or six 3A or 3B routes under their belts before taking on 4A or 4B canyons, or any canyon with an R or X rating.

Experienced Canyoneers will understand that flowing water has its own risks and techniques, that requires special training. All 3C or 4C canyons should only be attempted by trained, well equipped canyoneers.

Leading Groups should be done with caution. Especially in wet canyons, things can get out of control very quickly. It is not uncommon to see a group of non-climbers being led by one novice climber into a technical canyon like Zion's Pine Creek, making poor decisions, and putting innocent people at risk. Don't do it, I know you want to, don't be stupid.

Groups are as slow as their slowest member, and then slower. Youth groups get in trouble all the time in Utah, often resulting in rescues and occasionally in deaths. Technical canyons are not good places for youth groups. Find some other form of adventure. If your group is larger than 6 people, break into 2 groups to make the going faster and decrease your environmental impact.

What Stuff to Bring Along

The rating gives a general idea of the "kit" of technical gear required for a canyon, though it does not replace careful analysis of the description. In general, bring this stuff:

1A and 1B Not much. Bring a map.

2A and 2B Map and compass/GPS required. A short rope for lowering/raising packs might be helpful.

3A and 3B Ropes of the required length. Helmet, harness, rappel device, locking carabiner and rappeling gloves for each and every person. At least four or five over-the-shoulder slings in case anchor slings need to be replaced. Helpful to have tiblocs or prussicks and enough slings to use them. Map and compass/GPS.

4A and 4B Requires more self-reliance. Ropes of the required length. Helmet, harness, rap device, locking biner and gloves for each person. Enough slings and Rapid Links to replace all anchors in the canyon. Tiblocs or prussicks plus enough slings to use them to climb the rope. Map and compass/GPS. Bringing an extra rope (or pull-down cord 5mm x 165') is a good idea. 4A and 4B canyons often have old or unsafe bolts that are unreliable - good natural anchor skills will allow you to bypass suspect hardware.

R or X indicate greater seriousness, and suggest having more skills and maybe bringing more stuff (long slings, hooks, etc.) for improvising anchors and pushing through technical obstacles.

Groups

As you may have guessed, I'm not really in favor of large groups in our canyons. If you do bring a large group (larger than 6 persons), here are some suggestions:

Break It Up: take your group down in smaller groups of about 6. If you don't have enough competent leadership to break into groups, you don't have enough to manage the larger group.

Carry Extra Gear: given the carrying power of all those people, you should bring a spare full set of ropes, plus ascenders and a spare rappeling device. In case of injury, one group can go for help without stranding those who stay behind.

The old rating system is explained here. The new ACA rating system is being put in place January 27, 2001, and conversion on all places in the site will take quite a while. Please be patient.

Next:   Hazards, Non-Technical and Technical

Introduction   How to Use This Guide
Ratings   Finding Adventures Right for You
Hazards   Technical and Non-Technical
Minimum Impact Techniques   Camping and Hiking in Tune with the Landscape
Ruins and Rock Art   Special Notes on Proper Etiquette Among the Ancients
Equipment   Taking the Right Stuff
Technical Canyoneering   Notes for Technical Canyoneers
Ethics and Style   Some Comments on Appropriate Behavior
Guides   Professional Resources
Guidebooks and Books   Reviews and Comments
Maps   Map Notes, and a Review of Current Technology
Pretty Pictures   Enjoy my photo gallery - maybe buy something.

 

 

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