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ROBBERS ROOST

An interesting area that has recently hit the radar screen of many canyoneers, the Roost has been known and explored by bandits, ranchers and environmental extremists for years.

The Roost has a sublime character. There's something cool about driving to the TOP, descending a narrow, squeezy slot, then popping out into a beautiful, pristine, remote backpacker-type canyon. Hiking downcanyon, the adventurer is then challenged by finding the obscure or obvious route back up to the top-lands. Repeat. The Roost has very clear distinctions between the plateau up top, the slotty canyons, and the wide canyons at the bottom. Half the struggle on many adventures is finding the escape route.

The Roost is one of Utah's more adult canyoneering areas. Like The Escalante, the adventures are spread out and, with a few exceptions such as the slots listed here, are rarely visited by humans. Self-reliance is the name of the game, which makes this a poor place for beginners to hone their skills.

Please practice a   NO-BOLT ETHIC   when visiting the Roost. The area yields easily to natural-anchor techniques, though this may mean using deadmen, cairns, carefully-placed chockstones or other advanced techniques. Bring some webbing, and welcome the challenge of playing by natural-anchor rules. ALL the canyons in the area have been descended, so please figure out anatural-anchor solution as your predecessors did, before reaching for the drill.

Seasons

Fall and Spring are the best times for the Roost. March-April in the Spring, October-November in the fall. Unfortunately, these are also the times when the weather is least stable in Utah. Most of the Roost canyons hold a bit of water, but not a lot. Swimming and wading should be anticipated if there has been rain in the last month, and water can complicate anchor building in some locations.

Let's emphasize this. In the spring and fall, the temps are pretty good for canyoneering with a wetsuit on, but the water can be cold and drain your energy quickly. I have heard of nasty swims through tight, slanted slots and under chockstones - so be mentally and physically prepared for significant difficulties.

Facilities

Fuggetaboutit. There ain't any. Fill up on gas in Green River or Hanksville, and carry everything you need, including water. The roads are surprisingly good, though some areas experience blowing soft sand from time to time that makes 4WD useful. Severe washboarding sometimes makes the roads unpleasant, and there are sharp rocks in places that are hard on tires, so be sure your spare is pumped up.

Bad weather and dirt roads don't mix. Rain can make the roads impassable - plan accordingly. It's a long walk to Hanksville.

Cell service can be obtained atop the ridge between the Green River and Dirty Devil River drainages. You're hooking into a tower over in Moab, so if you can see the lights of the Moab airport, you might get service.

Routes Bluejohn Canyon - East/Main Loop     3A III 5.8(?)G A long and beautiful hike with a couple rappels and downclimbs, and a whole bunch of really good narrows. Up-climbing the Main Fork is good fun for the competent, and a rope can be offered for nervous-nellies. Larry Canyon     3A III A wonderful canyon in a remote setting, with lots of downclimbing and strenuous narrows, and a couple of rappels. Play Find-The-Exit to escape from the canyon. Ho Hum Fork, North Fork of Robbers Roost Canyon     3A III A not-very-exciting canyon that provides moderate access to the delightful North Fork of RR. Two exits (the Partner Climbing Exit and the Crack Route Exit) are detailed. Mind Bender Fork, North Fork of Robbers Roost Canyon     3A II A fabled canyon in the RR complex, with a few rappels and some natural anchor challenges. The "Moki Step" exit is detailed. Chambers Canyon, White Roost Area     3A/B II SLOT R- A wonderful, half-day climb-through canyon for the experienced canyoneer. Big Bad Ben, White Roost Area     3B III R SLOT PG- A really nice, but decidely short section of technical slot, in the middle of a pleasant ramble.

Maps

Maps are for sale at the Canyoneering USA Store, or you can download and print the 250kb versions here.

 

	Horseshoe Canyon, Canyonlands NP Bigger Version A great hike in the spring or fall, to the fabulous paintings at the Great Gallery.
	Bluejohn Canyon, East-Main Forks Loop Route Bigger Version Fun canyoneering adventure, with a couple short rappels and some interesting up-climbing. Does not include the Rolling Stone section.
	Not-Mindbender Fork, North Fork of Robbers Roost Canyon Bigger Version Some routes in the North Fork of Robbers Roost Canyon: Mindbender Fork, Not-Mindbender Fork, and two exit routes. These technical routes require natural anchor skills. Kelsey calls these the North-Middle Fork and the Little Middle Fork.
	Larry and Alcatraz Canyons, Robbers Roost Bigger Version Larry and Alcatraz (aka North Fork of Twin Corral Box or TCB): two fun canyons in a remote area, that require lots of downclimbing and squeezing, and natural anchor skills.