Routes in Zion National ParkRoutes in the San Rafael SwellRoutes in EscalanteRoutes in the Cedar Mesa AreaNorth Wash CanyonsRobbers Roost Canyons
HomepageIntroductionRatingsTech TipsSend me some Feedback

How NOT to do it - a Cautionary Tale (or three)
Adventures in Quandary Canyon
Quandary is a well-known, somewhat technical canyon in the Swell, which seems to draw more than its share of epics. My own experience with Quandary started with meeting the parents of a young woman killed there in a flash flood. Here's a few stories about it, presented to encourage caution in budding young (and old) canyoneers.

Quandary Story #1
Quandary Story #2
• Quandary Story #3
Quandary Story #4 - Bolt Removal Trip


Another email:

More on the Quandary Canyon saga: Myself and a friend headed down Quandary in October of '99. Like yourself, we decided we were there for the real deal and headed down the throat of the triple pothole section.

The first two were relatively easy--we hand lined the first guy in, moved the packs across and boosted the first guy out the opposite side, then the first lifted the second out. The second hole took a few tries to get the second guy out, but nothing too serious.

Then we came to the lip of the deep third hole. By October, after a dry summer, the hole was very deep, probably 10 to 15 feet from the top of the water to the exit point. And the water was of unknown depth. With low water we could see that it was overhung, with sheer, smooth, vertical walls. The pool was so deep that it had started corkscrewing itself down into the rock. We could see the corkscrew fins, under water when you were there, but now exposed. Beautiful but deadly. If we both went in, the best we could hope for was to ascend back up our rope. Even if the water was only a foot deep (unlikely) I doubt I could have reached the exit point standing on my friend's shoulders.

We saw the anchor you had placed and puzzled over how it could be used. With the low water, it made no sense to us at all. What could you possibly do with that anchor to help you cross?

Finally, wisely (or luckily) we decided that the anchor was of no use. There was no going forward through the pool and no backing up--we had not set ropes in the upper pools and the high side exits were unreachable when in the water. The walls of these pools were baby-bottom smooth (to use your terminology), almost vertical, and our feet were muddy and wet.

Our only escape was up--climbing without protection about 40 feet up the west side wall of the canyon and over the shoulder of the wall onto a wide ledge. Fortunately we had our climbing shoes with us, and they were dry. Rhett, being the more experienced climber, got the unenviable duty of making the ascent. Portions of the rock were crumbly, adding a little difficulty to the climb, which was in the 5.5 to 5.6 range. Once up on the ledge, Rhett set up a belay for me to climb out. Total time at the pool: probably in excess of an hour and a half.

From the ledge continuing down canyon was easy. We went up onto a wide relatively flat slickrock area and worked our way downcanyon along the rim. Once past the deep pool, we looked for another entry point and soon dropped back into the dry canyon bottom. We encountered more obstacles on the descent, but most could be passed with no rope or a hand line. Only one rappel remained, and that one was a mostly a low angle descent.

We considered ourselves lucky. After we got back home, I purchased the new edition of Kelsey's San Rafael hiking guide. In it he states that to continue down into this area is certain suicide. After reading yours and Myke's reports, I feel even more fortunate to have gotten out that day. Perhaps we were lucky that the water level was so low that we did not even consider entering the deep pool. Sounds like your experience wasn't much better than ours. For those not able to climb, reaching the pool in low water would certainly make that spot impassible. Smart hikers would await rescue, the unwise might attempt the pool and not live to tell about it.

Steve M


From: "Tom Jones" tom@jrat.com
To:Steve
Sent: Monday, April 10, 2000 12:00 PM
Subject: Re: Quandary in Quandary

Thanks for the whole story.

Actually, I think smart canyoneers would carry a bolt kit and engineer their way out of difficulty.

I'm not slagging on you, but I would like to know, because it is a common problem: what were you doing, heading down an unknown canyon ill prepared (no bolt kit, no hooks)?

(And I did the same thing this past weekend, having left the hardware sitting at my desk. But my not-too-reliable information said the canyon was fixed, and it worked out, though the hardware is in terrible shape and we just barely made it .

tom


From: Steve
To: "Tom Jones" tom@jrat.com
Sent: Monday, April 11, 2000 12:00 PM
Subject: Re: Quandary in Quandary

Tom,

Our case was similar to yours. We had read accounts describing Quandary that made it sound very passable without the need for a bolt kit. And it would have been if we hadn't missed (or ignored) the route that bypasses the potholes. Once we got to the third pothole I don't believe a bolt kit would have helped us much anyway. Perhaps we could have used bolts and aiders (etriers) once inside the pool, but I wouldn't like to stay in the water that long, even with a wet suit.

I don't have any problem with the anchor you placed. Hey, everyone needs to rely on their own judgement and skills in the canyoneering world. I just wanted to relay another story about the "fun" of that section of Quandary.

Steve


Quandary Story #1
Quandary Story #2
• Quandary Story #3
Quandary Story #4 - Bolt Removal Trip



 

Zion | San Rafael Swell | Canyons of the Escalante | Cedar Mesa | North Wash | Robbers Roost
Homepage | Introduction | Ratings | Tech Tips | Feedback
All content © 1996-2005, Canyoneering USA