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View of Muddy Creek, Factory Butte and the Henries, from high on the southern San Rafael Reef.
 
The Muddy Creek cutting through the south end of the San Rafael Reef.
THE SAN RAFAEL SWELL
Rugged, desolate, dry, hot, wild. One of those corners of the world lost to civilization, and recently discovered for on-foot and ATV recreation. This is the kind of area that has little appeal to those who are not charmed by the desert. Oases of human-friendly environments are few and far between. There are a few charming little hikes, but the adventures tend to be fairly hard-core.

Once you get to know it, the Swell is a great place. An extensive network of dirt roads, built by prospectors and miners in the 1950s, provides pretty reasonable access. During the Spring, Fall and Winter, the weather can be pleasant, and there are a wide variety of canyons to check out. During the summer, the sun is unrelenting, and the choice of survivable adventures is few.

The eastern edge of the Swell is sharply defined by the San Rafael Reef - a Navajo and Wingate sandstone bluff that rises out of the desert for 50 miles from near Price almost to Hanksville. Behind the Reef is the center of the Swell - an area dominated by flat layers of Coconino Sandstone, canyons cut into the rock, and bluffs that stand above the terrain.

The western edge of the Swell is more complex. In the north, the terrain gently descends west and becomes less rugged as the Swell fades into the agricultural Castledale valley. South of I-70, the west edge of the Swell is dominated by Muddy Creek, which cuts a deep canyon, and a steep escarpment that rises west above the Muddy to the Mussentuchit Flats - a high, flat plateau. At the south end of the Swell, the Reef bends around and merges into the escarpment above the Muddy, becoming the Moroni Slopes. Interstate 70 cuts East to West across the center of the Swell, dividing the Northern and Southern section.

Technical Canyoneering in the Swell is practiced using a No-Bolt Ethic. The rock is highly featured and yields easily to no-bolt techniques, so hone your skills and keep that bolt kit buried in the pack. Even the most difficult canyons on the Moroni Slope have been descended many times with zero bolts.

Unfortunately, bolts have been placed in the Swell by many parties. Some I placed myself, before being enrolled in the no-bolt ethic. Canyoneers should be extremely wary of all fixed anchors, as the rock is extremely weak. Even long-established chockstone anchors should be treated with caution. Since many of the technical canyons have appeared in Mr. Kelsey's guidebook, visitors with only modest natural anchoring skills (or who have not yet "seen the light" and joined the no-bolt ethic) have placed quite a few bolts in otherwise natural-only canyons. While pulling these bolts is probably not a good idea, you and yours are requested to avoid adding more bolts.

Special Considerations

The Swell is a serious and demanding place. There are no trail signs, established trailheads, campgrounds or reliable water sources (with the exception of Goblin Valley State Park). You are on your own. Rescue and assistance are far away. Bring plenty of water. Do things within your competence.

Adventures in the Swell are divided into eight sections: the Northern Swell, well north of I-70; the Central Swell, those areas accessed from I-70; the Northern Reef - the reef north of I-70; the Eastern - accessed by the Goblin Valley Road; the Southern Reef, accessed from Hidden Splendor; the South-Central Swell; the Tomsich Butte area; and the Moroni Slopes.

 
Northern Swell
(Nothing Yet)

 

Northern Reef
Box & Double Arch Canyons Family Walk    1A II
Box & Double Arch Canyons Reef Walk    III Class 4

 

Central Swell
Forgotten Canyon    3A III (5.4)
Reid Nielson Draw to Crawford Draw    2A (or B) I or II
Upper Straight Wash    2A III
Eardley Canyon    3B V
 

An interesting section of kid-size narrows, in front of the San Rafael Reef
Wild Horse Canyon in front of the Reef.

Ding Canyon in the Eastern San Rafael Reef
Ding Canyon

 

Eastern Reef
Lower Straight Wash    1A II
Eardley Canyon Technical Dayhike    3B III (5.4)
Farnsworth Canyon Stroll    1A II
Farnsworth Canyon &
3 Hidden Arches
    2A III
Farnsworth Canyon, 3 Hidden Arches
and Jug Handle Arch Rap Route
    3A III
Wild Horse Canyon and Skylight Arch    2A II
Wild Horse Canyon Through Hike    1A II-III
Crack Canyon    2A II-III
Chute Canyon    1A II-III
Little Wild Horse and Bell Canyons    2A II-III
Ding and Dang Canyons    2A II-III (5.4)

 

South Central Swell
Upper Chute Canyon    3B IV (5.4R)
Baptist Draw to Upper Chute Canyon    3A III

 

Click for Larger Map

 

Rocks, Knotted Rope Canyon

 

Southern Reef
Quandary Canyon    3B III
Quandary Canyon Direct    4B III
Knotted Rope Canyon, 3 Ways    3B III
Grand Gorge of Muddy Creek    2B II
Mud Canyon    2A II-III
Music Canyon    3A III

 

Tomsich Butte Area
Penitentiary Canyon    2A II-III

 

Moroni Slopes
Lower Squeeze from Muddy Creek
aka North Fork Seger's Hole Canyon
    4B IV
Seger's Window Canyon from Muddy Creek
aka South Fork Seger's Hole Canyon
    3B 5.4 IV

 

Bonus - Robbers Roost Area
Bluejohn Canyon East/Main Loop    3B III 5.8

 

Resources

Desert Highlights is a guide service working out of Moab that offers an extensive array of interesting trips in The Swell and in the Moab area.
800-747-1342
Ray's Tavern, in the center of Green River, offers burgers and beers with a little local color. Boaters welcome.
  Robbers Roost Motel, 225 W Main, Green River
801-564-3452
An inexpensive, locally owned motel.
USGS Utah Stream Flow Data - Real-time river flows in Utah:
  Muddy Creek near Emery
  San Rafael River near Green River

 

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