Technical Tips:   Locking Off a Figure of 8

One advantage of a Figure of Eight rappel device is that it can be locked off on the rope, a useful trick for some circumstances. It makes it so that the 8 can be used as an ascender.

A few caveats - it only works with flat faced Figure 8s like the Petzl and SMC, and it only works with some ropes. Please please please practice this at home before trying it in the field. When locked off, the 8 is somewhat iffy, so only use it that way for a few moments.

The Figure 8 is used in Figure 8 mode. To lock off, bring the brake hand strand over the top, and snug it in, between the rappel strand and the body of the Figure 8. You may need to pass the strand over your head to get it in the correct position.

It should also be noted that by bringing the strand up over your head, you are decreasing the friction through the Figure 8.

So. Learn and understand this in a safe environment. Wear a helmet. Be safe. Learn more tools, and learn which tools to use when.

Instruction in this and other techniques is available from the American Canyoneering Association.