Zion National Park - Lodge Canyon and Mountain of the Sun
Lodge Canyon (aka Employee Canyon, Wylie Canyon or Mountain of the Sun Canyon) offers modest charms and several opportunities to get the rope stuck. Mountain of the Sun is one of the more-accessible technical, wilderness summits in the park, and the ascent of the one and descent of the other makes for a quality day. The big-wall exit out Lodge is a common place to get ropes stuck, so this adventure can only be recommended to experienced canyoneers.
Lodge Canyon runs north between Mountain of the Sun and Deertrap Mountain, dropping into the main canyon south of Zion Lodge, through the alcove known as Wylie Retreat, and coming out to the road through the employee housing area of Zion Lodge.
Mountain of the Sun catches the first and last rays of the sun, as seen from Zion Lodge. It used to be called one of the Three Brothers, but "left the family" when the Lodge became popular. The other two became the Twin Brothers. Before the Lodge, the Wylie brothers operated a motorcar tour with tent-camp at the present Lodge location (1917-1925). The waterfall and glen behind the Lodge is known as Wylie Retreat. The Lodge was built by the Union Pacific Railroad in 1925.
| Rating: | | 4A III R  |
| Time Required: | | 5 to 7 hours. |
| Season: | | Spring, Summer or Fall |
| Cold Water Protection: | | None Required |
| Longest Rappel: | | 200 feet (60 m) |
| Special Difficulties: | | Famous for getting ropes stuck. Bring lots of webbing to extend anchors. |
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Driving:
Lodge starts where Pine Creek crosses Highway 9 one third of a mile (500 meters) east of the main tunnel. There is poor parking at this spot - park closer to the tunnel at a real parking spot and walk the side of the road to the crossing of Pine Creek.
Lodge Canyon ends at Wylie Retreat, behind the Zion Lodge.
Approach: Follow the same approach as Spry Canyon into the upper bowl of Spry. Turn north and climb to the notch pass between Twin Brothers and Deertrap Mountain, and drop over the other side. Descend small trails steeply through trees and around a few minor drops to an open slickrock area below Mountain of the Sun (see Var-1).
Canyon: The canyon soon slots up. Avoid the first slot section by following the left edge about 50 feet to a weakness that is descended into the canyon. Downclimb as far as possible, then cross the canyon to a narrow, sandy ledge and traverse to a small tree.
R1: from small tree 165 feet (50m) to the edge of a small pool. SCAAAARY! – as of 2005, the small tree is not long for this world. Evaluate carefully, then find another anchor in the area.
R2: from bolt anchor on left 165 feet (50m) to the edge of a large pool. This rappel tends to get stuck - extend the anchor as far as you can.
R3: from bolt anchor on right 30 feet (10m) to ledge.
R4: from bolt anchor, rap 40 feet (12m) to the top of a buttress on the right - NOT down the chute. Walk right (east) to the other side of the buttress.
R5: from bolt anchor at right side of buttress, rap off right side of buttress 200 feet (60m) to a ledge. Watch out for loose rock. Ropes get stuck on this one - extend the anchor as required.
R6: from bolt anchor 165 feet (50m) beside waterfall to the ground.
Special Warning: You MUST exit the watercourse part way down rappel 4. The final drop down the watercourse is longer than 300 feet (100m). The descent route is on the other side of the buttress - be SURE to go that way.
This canyon is famous for sticking ropes. There are long slings on a couple of the anchors, and they may not be long enough to place the rappel point over the edge. Rig your rappels carefully and test-pull. Carrying an extra rope or two is a good idea in this canyon, and might prevent an unplanned bivy.
Loose rock falling on the last rappel station has been responsible for one fatality. Wear a helmet, clip into the belay, and pay attention to what you are doing.
Exit: Follow game trails down and left, past a small waterfall to the main canyon. Find a discrete way to get to the road, then follow the road to the back of Zion Lodge. You are walking through people's backyards, so be polite.
Var-1: Ascent of Mountain of the Sun (4th class/5.4 R)
Overall Rating (MOS and Lodge Canyon): 4A IV 5.4 R
From the open slickrock area in Lodge Canyon, follow a huge, tree-spotted ramp up and left, then right to the MOS - Twin Brothers pass (3rd class). Climb dirty slabs with brush on the right-hand corner of the south face to the base of an orange vertical wall facing Deertrap Mountain. Follow the ledge/gully at the base of the orange wall north (right) several hundred yards (200m) to near its end, where a steep gully allows easy escape up and left. Follow a faint trail up and around to the summit. Pay attention - the trail can be difficult to find on the way down. Enjoy the expansive views, then return the way you came. Allow 2 hours for the round trip from the canyon floor.
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