HEAPS CANYON
Leo Malloy
1 June, 1995
We left the Grotto Parking lot at 6pm and reached the West Rim spring at 8pm. We then took the West Rim trail to the head of Heaps Canyon. The next morning we got up at 8am and headed down into Heaps at 10:30am.
We entered the canyon east of its main head and scrambled down the slope and came to the first rappel It is a 100ft rappel off a large fir tree. The end is in the main canyon bottom. We then down climbed and rappelled down a chimney system, about five rappels in all. Some of the rappel points were fixed anchors which needed new slings or were off chock stones or pinches. After the chimney system it is easy walking until you come to another drop. You can walk up and right to get around it. Traverse the slickrock on the right or west side of the main drainage, or down climb the slickrock chimney into the main canyon. We chose to traverse the rock to a large fir, did an easy l00ft rappel and were back down in the main canyon. We walked a short distance and came to a 60ft rappel. We continued down and came to a series drop offs with plunge pools over our heads. We then climbed up and right then went down a ridge that crossed over the deeper pool area. From the ridge the crossroads area could be seen. The crossroads was our destination for the day. From the ridge we descended slickrock to a large fir tree and did a l00ft rappel back into the canyon. There is a bolt stance with two bolts near the tree out on the slickrock. If its damp as it was when we were there it would be somewhat dangerous to get to. After this rappel we were able to walk down canyon in and out of waist deep plunge pools. We got to the crossroads at 3:30pm. We had planned on camping here. There is good water and sites above the high water line.
The canyon narrows just east of the crossroads. Where it narrows we scouted by going up and left (east) on the north side of the canyon. After hiking a 1/4 mile we came to a tree with slings. Looking down we could see a place to camp above the high water line. We went back, got our packs, did the rappel and made camp. We were 1/8 mile from where the canyon narrows. The next morning we left at 9:30am with our gear in dry bags and wearing full wetsuits and stocking caps. We entered the narrows at l0am. The narrows requires a great dealof swimming- distances up to 300ft before reaching a rest spot. The rest stops are places you have to pull your bag over. There are many short rappels off drilled pins and webbing on stump jams. Some of the fixed anchors were torn out and needed to be replaced. At 3pm the canyon opened up. We hiked up and left about 200ft and came to another 65ft rappel. After this rappel we were at the end of the canyon. We took a break, packed up and headed up and left over a 35ft boulder problem, got the packs across the gap and went to the far right and dropped down an easy chimney to a tree. We did the 40ft rappel off this tree to another tree. From the next tree we rappelled 150ft down the comer to a stance with four bolts (in good condition) then did the 310ft rappel to the bottom.
GEAR SUGGESTIONS:
2-165ft 8mm ropes
330ft parachute cord
Bolt kit
Assortment of baby angles
Few medium angles
120ft of webbing
PVC dry bags for packs
Figure eights and another belay device
Full wetsuit including booties and gloves
There is no need to bring climbing shoes or a rock climbing rack. There is no devils pit. It does not exist in the fashion described in other accounts of this route. Be prepared to do rappels in small waterfalls into pools over your head. A strong party with sound technical canyoneering skills could do this route in two days and enjoy it.