Notes for Death Valley, Long long canyons, maybe big groups.

Notes for Death Valley, super long canyons, big groups, long rappels, moving efficiently.  Might apply elsewhere. Suggestions. There are always multiple ways to do it, please ponder on this.

Guidelines. Suggestions. Not rules.

1. Contingency anchors – NO!  These ain’t waterfalls, at least, I hope not. If we have beginners along, we are already in big trouble.

2. Bottom belays – YES!  Especially on rappels longer than 100’. BUT, DV has a lot of loose rock, so the bottom belayer needs to be out of the target zone. Usually best to step to the side (and back) rather than just back. As the rappeller gets close to the ground, to maintain belay, you will need to step closer in.

2B. Two ropes: if we are running two ropes, just belay both of them. No need to yell up ‘which rope’.  Just belay both.

3. OFF ROPE (two whistles); Thank you (or one whistle): do this, every time. Both the Off rope, and the response from the top. In Death Valley, step out away from the target zone before saying OFF ROPE.  (if you are at the bottom with a whistle, only whistle once the rappeller is out of the target zone).

4. NO SURPRISES: amazing as it sounds some people are surprised when going down the canyon by things that they should not be surprised by. For instance:

4a. When someone is rappelling, the next person should step forward to be ready to rap the INSTANT the first someone yells Off Rope. If no one is stepping forward to do so, then it is YOU who should step forward. Word of the day is “GO”!

4b. Crazy as it sounds, after each rappel, the rope will be retrieved and the rope(s) will need to be stuffed. You can actually set up for this BEFORE the last person rappels, certainly before they reach the ground!

4c. Many people are unaware that some people can move downcanyon towards the next rappel even while other people are still rappelling.  However –

4d. It takes a couple people to clean up each rappel, pulling and stuffing. At least two people, and best to NOT include the last rappeller.

4e. Do NOT pull the rope while people are still in the target zone. Pulling the rope will sometimes knock rocks down. We prefer if those rocks do not lead to a bad day.

5. Ropes need to move forward faster than people. Pass ropes forward. The first few people down a rappel maybe should be carrying a rope down. Maybe a rope someone else hands to them after they have rigged to the rope. (I like people rappelling with ropes, rather than chucking the ropes down, although chucking works fine for short drops when you can see everyone below.)

6. Save the 300’ ropes for the 300’ rappels.

SEQUENCING

Sequencing is the term for intelligently managing who rappels when where why how. My favorite plan is called ROLY POLY. The objective is for everyone to get some time in front, some time in the middle, and some time bagging ropes at the end.

The First shall be Last; and the Last… come to think of it, it really is the First shall be Last. Many are called but…  something something. (Matthew 20:16)

The person in front (The First) arrives at a drop, and becomes the manager of that drop. If the anchor is easily inspected (and passes), they rig the rope and get people headed down, and end up rapping last. They also ‘own’ the rappel, by which we usually mean they watch each person rig up, they might relay some information about the rappel which is useful; they might shift the rope after each rappeller; they WILL figure out how the rappel will be pulled; they might need to keep the train moving efficiently, and they will perhaps manage to make sure that ropes get sent forward.

If the anchor needs substantial work, they might set up a meat anchor so peeps can start rapping down (especially light people). They might enroll other people in tuning up the anchor. They might, well, you know, manage the whole thing.

RUNNING TWO ROPES

With a fairly large group, it can be helpful to get two people rappling at a time, especially on long rappels. In a place with a lot of loose rock (ie, DV), it is best if the two people are rappelling side by side (where possible) or at least close to each other, so that the rocks they knock off do not hit each other. It helps if the two ropes are not in the exact same place… but sometimes there is only one clean line of rappel.  Our anchors are not Two-Person Anchors, so the two ropes will need to be anchored separately – perhaps one off the actual rock cairn anchor, and one off a two-person meat anchor.

STONE Knot: the other way to run two ropes is how we use a stone knot, alternating rappellers. We never load the anchor with two people, but the next person can load onto the second rope and be ready to go as soon as the first person is off rope and out of the zone.

MORE ROLY POLY notes:

A. It is not essential to maintain the correct order, but it is helpful, perhaps. We are seeking fairness.

B. If you are ready to rappel and the person in front of you is not, just GO!

C. If you get to a drop and you don’t know what to do, you can pass the baton to the next person in line, or ask for advice, or ???  Don’t be shy. There might be some drops in this canyon that require expertise, experimentation or adaptation. Communicate!

D. If you see something wrong or non-ideal, use your words. Communicate. Discuss, but do maintain some focus on moving people and ropes forward.

Personally I like taking an actual group lunch break, but given the long rappels, there are likely plenty of places to stop and nosh. Eat when you can, and definitely when you need to. Drink too. Keep an awareness of how other people are doing and see something, say something. We’re all in this together. Steph Curry does not shoot threes every night.

Thanks, now get out there and do stuff!