Sundance 2026 - D3 - Jan 25 - movie 1

This movie is too too powerful to swirl in with other movies. It opens with Doctor Mark and a movie editor reviewing some material. which goes something like this (ie, this is a paraphrase):

Editor: well, maybe we can use this, but we'll have to blur this as it is too graphic...

Mark: no no no.  You can't do that. These are dead children, maimed children

Editor: for the sake of their dignity, we can't...

Mark: these children are dead. They have no dignity. Israel took away their dignity.

Editor:  yes, but...

Mark: you are suggesting journalistic treason, turning away from the truth. That is the whole problem. The turning away...

The temptation is vast.  The truth might set you free, but right away it will make you nauseous. 

It made me nauseous.

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Tom Jones
A Brief History of the FiddleStick

A Brief History of the FiddleStick

Developing the FiddleStick was very much a group project, though I do claim credit as the driving force behind it, being the 'equipment person'.

The Spark

The year was 2011, March 12th actually. We were doing a rest-day hike/rappel canyon partly to go look at a very large arch that Scott Patterson had noticed in Marinus Canyon, North Wash area, Utah. At the top of the canyon, we found the arch, with a spacious flat top about 30 feet down from the rim. We needed to do a short rappel to get to the top of the arch.

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Tom Jones
Repairing the Vinyl Bottom of Imlay Packs

Repairing the Vinyl Bottom of Imlay Packs

Most of our packs use 18 oz Vinyl on the bottoms and side-bottoms, and while it is fairly tough, it does get chewed up. The good news is that it can be repaired. By you.

Ask, and we will send you some vinyl scraps, which you could glue-on like butterfly bandages with the HH-66 glue. Clean the vinyl (both sides) with rubbing alcohol before trying to glue it. You would want to fill the bottom of the pack very tightly, glue stuff on then wrap it up tight to hold them in place until the glue sets.

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Tom Jones
A few canyons in the Valley of Death

Death Valley Swaney Fest 2026 - Feb 13,14,15

Back to DV and Slabby for the yearly gathering of the clan! Joe Muir from Cedar City was my driver and rope sherpa for the weekend, and did a great job of both!

Thursday night we drove through a bit of rain to Las Vegas and bunked with TreC and Luuke. Peruvian food this time! Morning saw up driving north and west a bit later than planned, and we arrived at the Natural Bridge Canyon parking lot 80 minutes late to meet Willie, who had left to find other peeps about 15 minutes earlier. Sigh... we grabbed some ropes and headed out for N Bridge Cyn, that I had remembered as being a half-day / half-climb canyon.

There is a reason my automatic answer to any question that starts "do you remember" is "NOPE!"

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Tom Jones
Sundance 2026 - D3 - Jan 25

A midnight film. I'm not into horror films in general, having come late to the genre, and mostly through Sundance. I've seen some good Canadian flicks, okay Australian contributions, and the night before a wonderful sendup of 90's Kids shows (Buddy); but this from New Zealand is GOLD!

An outlandish premise, carried through spectacularly! Continuously strange, funny and with very little actual 'horror', and with a happy ending! And some unlikely reflections on Mother-Daughter relationships and the overall strangeness of pregnancy itself.

Unlikely to be in a theatre near you, but I'm sure it will be available streaming. Highly recommended. Good date movie!

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Tom Jones
Sundance 2026 - D2 - Jan 24

We began the day with a big winner. Tuner starring Leo Woodall and Dustin Hoffman is a wonderful independent film, hitting notes of comedy, buddy movie, crime thriller and romantic comedy, and pulls them all off quite well.

Synopsis (from Wikipedia):
A talented piano tuner's meticulous skills for tuning pianos lead him to discover an unexpected aptitude for cracking safes, turning his life upside down.

A well-scripted, well-filmed, well-edited movie. We have a WINNER!  It will be out in cinemas. See it on the big screen. Good date movie!

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Tom Jones
Sundance 2026 - D1 - Jan 23

This is the last Sundance in Utah for the foreseeable future. (SAD) Only three movies today... well, actually, I guess only two, but I will comment on:

THE LAKE

First movie of the day is The Lake, a film about the looming disaster that is the collapse of the Salt Lake ecosystem that will likely make Salt Lake City uninhabitable.  I did NOT see the movie as the manic drive to get there in time to get into the film did not appeal, so this is based on comments from others.

This was a big deal in SLC. For good reason. Buzz buzz buzz. Governor Cox made an appearance. All described it as a well-made film except that...  well, it was faith affirming.  It made clear the danger looming over our shoulders. And that the proper response to this was more fervent prayer and trusting in Heavenly Father - as is the "Utah Way".

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Tom Jones
The Subtle Weight of Knowledge

Knowledge—sometimes no more than a whispered hint—changes everything.

I have followed routes with well-documented beta, followed others who knew the way, descended with minimal details, and explored canyons with absolutely zero knowledge. The routes have been both hard and easy—sometimes with potholes, sometimes stemming, sometimes going X, but usually not.

Over the years, I have noticed people claiming a route is not as hard as others suggest. Many now consider a full route description to be “beta,” and anything less an “explore.” In this shift we have lost sight of what exploring a canyon truly means. Few pause to realize how a single scrap of knowledge can completely alter the perceived difficulty—and, by extension, how a canyon can feel far harder simply because no information exists.

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Tom Jones
Toggle/FiddleStick (new) Backup Method

Eric in Sedona showed me a new (to me) way of backing up a FiddleStick (aka Toggle) that I think might become (my) standard practice and certainly could be useful in specific challenging situations.

I have a canyon in my future where the FiddleStick will be positioned over the edge; I will want the anchor secured / safetied-off until I am in rappelling position below the Fiddle. With this method, I can hook into the rappel line, then downclimb and get settled in position below the Fiddle, then untie the barrel knot and complete the rappel.

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Tom Jones
Notes for Death Valley, Long long canyons, maybe big groups.

Notes for Death Valley, super long canyons, big groups, long rappels, moving efficiently.  Might apply elsewhere. Suggestions. There are always multiple ways to do it, please ponder on this.

Guidelines. Suggestions. Not rules.

1. Contingency anchors – NO!  These ain’t waterfalls, at least, I hope not. If we have beginners along, we are already in big trouble.

2. Bottom belays – YES!  Especially on rappels longer than 100’. BUT, DV has a lot of loose rock, so the bottom belayer needs to be out of the target zone. Usually best to step to the side (and back) rather than just back. As the rappeller gets close to the ground, to maintain belay, you will need to step closer in. …

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Tom Jones
Tom Jones Favorite Book List

I’m a reader, what can I say. Here are a FEW of my favorite books, updated from time to time:

Julia by Sandra Newman

Savage Arena by Joe Tasker

Lamb by Christopher Moore

Lessons in Chemistry by Bonnie Garmus

Good Omens by Neil Gaimon

Children of Time by Adrian Tchaikovsky

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Tom Jones
Zion: Echo Canyon from the Top - Sept 19, 2024

Back In The Day: Middle Echo WAS a fun, scenic, straightforward ‘beginner’ canyon when accessed from the Weeping Rock Shuttle stop. That trail has been closed for a while, and will for another long while. Middle Echo is now accessed from the top, from Stave Springs trailhead, and should not Tom’s beta reflect this reality? Tom (uh, me) had been through upper Middle Echo a decade ago and did not remember much in the way of nice canyon nor difficulties. A recent post disagreed. Hank Moon pointed out the obvious - my beta really oughta be accurate, so…

I rounded up Tim and Marco for a note-taking trip. I had not been in Middle Echo is quite some time (10 years?)

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Two days in Lodge Canyon, Zion - 9/6 & 9/8 2024, incl Bolt Work

I had set up a trip for Sunday, for Lodge Canyon, to look at the Direct Exit and thinking about replacing some of the many bolts I had placed in this canyon over the last 20 years with more-reliable Glue Ins. And then got a call from friends to do it on the Friday before, as they wanted to do something, not too big, before a Full Imlay on Saturday. Well… yeah, why not?

Fun to do this canyon with the “A Team”, and see a few downclimbing options I had not previously considered. New logs had washed into the canyon since the last time I ran through it - maybe 8 years prior? …

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Tom JonesLodge
2024 08 18 Leprechaun Stroll and Anchor Cleanup

It was reported there was a new, odd, superfluous bolt backing up a cairn at the first rappel in Leprechaun… or something like that. For those familiar with the system, ‘the first rappel in Lep’ is rather non-specific – there are seven spots that could be the ‘first rappel’.  I figured it was probably at the very top of East Lep, and as I had a few hours available driving back from Ouray, and there was a pleasant light rain falling, I threw some tools in the pack and went for a stroll. First Stop, East Lep.

The top-layer rappel in East (A) can be walked around, but we usually rap it off an easy-to-build cairn. There was a well constructed, though oversized, cairn here, no bolt.

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An Interesting Trip Through Heaps June 1-2, 2024

I’ve always been the leader, and aside from some trips with Kevin Clark up here in the PNW, it’s all been us figuring it out on our own. I’ve been in Portland Mountain Rescue for 19 years now, so ropework isn’t a problem, but SAR is different from canyoneering. I can do things (relatively) safely, but not necessarily as fast as they need to get done.

Heaps threw far more obstacles at us, and while we were able to get through them, they all took time. Combine that with two leaky drysuits, and one of my guys getting exhausted part-way through the third narrows, and we had to move even slower to make sure that we could find the best way through every obstacle for the guy who was hurting.

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